Our Friends and Neighbors:
Woldy Reyes
How to Throw a holiday Party
Brooklyn-based Woldy Reyes is a chef, and founder of the boutique catering company, Woldy Kusina — and if he’s not already inspiring you on Instagram with his fits and feasts, stop now and do yourself the favor of following him.
Reyes first acquired his love of cooking from his grandmother. “Growing up, I was attached to her hip. I was so curious about what she did in the kitchen…the love she put into making traditional Filipino food and the performance of it all.” And, like any other self-respecting food lover who grew up in the 90s, he caught the fever watching the likes of Ina Garten and Nigella Lawson. “Their beautiful, aspirational way of entertaining, the art of gathering and hosting…I was really drawn to it.”
However, after majoring in Hotel Restaurant Management in college, Reyes moved to New York City — and began working in editorial at fashion magazines; “I’m really drawn to beauty in all forms. It’s what keeps me alive.” Six years later, however, he decided to take the leap and pursue his passion for food, launching his catering business with the help of friends he’d made in the fashion industry (an early client was Christian Louboutin).
With Reyes new cookbook, In the Kusina: My Seasonal Filipino Cooking, coming out in spring, we decided to get this veteran party hoster’s advice on throwing the perfect holiday party, family traditions and a recipe for the perfect dessert.
Your favorite easy appetizer when you’re hosting?
Dips. There are multiple recipes for ones I make in my cookbook, like — I love hummus, but I make a creamy whipped tofu with a similar consistency that’s fun because you can dress it up however you like…you could put chili crisp on top, za’atar, whatever. And have a lot of crunchy vessels: crudites, pita chips, rice crackers.
How are you stocking the bar at your party?
I want to make sure there’s a non-alcoholic option with a similar feeling of drinking alcohol, where you lose your inhibition. I like Aplós, it’s adaptogenic; I mix it with seltzer and lime juice, and when I drink it, it feels like I’m letting loose. And then for me, I would have a Mezcal (I really like the smokiness of YOLA Mezcal) on the rocks. That’s my go-to drink, with a squeeze of lime. And an orange wine, and something sparkling — maybe an obnoxiously giant magnum, which is fun for a holiday party.
What would you get as a gift for a host?
A really good coffee. There’s one I’m really enjoying right now, it’s called Bacha Coffee, in the Seville Orange flavor; I really enjoy the citrus notes in this very deep coffee. That’s what I would give a host, for them to enjoy the next morning.
And what would you want as a gift, if you were hosting?
One of the Todd Snyder vintage watches. It’s not food oriented, but when I’m hosting I’m always looking at the time, to make sure everything is where it needs to go…timing is everything. So, a nice vintage Rolex watch. Preferably 1986 — that’s the year I was born.
What do you love about holiday dressing?
I enjoy the ritual of dressing up and putting on a bowtie. Putting on a tux, something festive but also very chic and refined. It just helps you adopt a festive spirit and have a good time. I feel confident.
Do you have any special holiday traditions?
I grew up in a Catholic household in California, so every year when I go home we all go to mass together. The pageantry of it all is such a to-do; we eat a lot, go to church, sing all of the songs, and go back home. And traditionally in Filippino culture, we put out round fruits (persimmons, oranges, grapes) and throw coins around the house to bring luck and financial prosperity.
Bibingka Cake ingredients
MAKES ONE 9 IN (23 CM) ROUND CAKE
- 1 ¼ cups rice flour
- 1 ¼ cups glutinous rice flour
- 1 tbsp baking powder
- 1 tsp kosher salt
- 1 cup granulated sugar
- 3 medium eggs, at room temperature
- one 14 oz can unsweetened coconut milk
- 3⁄4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
- 1 tsp vanilla extract
- 2 tbsp lime zest (from about 4 limes)
Lime Glaze Ingredients
- 1 cup powdered sugar
- 1 tsp kosher salt (Diamond Crystal)
- 4 Limes juiced and zested
Cake Prep
Step 1
Preheat the oven to 350°F [180°C] and position the rack in the middle of the oven.
Step 2
Spray a 9 by 2 in [23 by 5 cm] round cake pan with a nonstick olive oil cooking spray. Line the bottom of the cake pan with parchment paper and spray with the cooking spray.
Step 3
In a large bowl, whisk together the rice flour, glutinous rice flour, baking powder, and salt.
Step 4
In a medium bowl, whisk together the sugar and eggs. Add the coconut milk, olive oil, and vanilla. Whisk the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients until the mixture is fully incorporated and the batter is smooth. Fold in the lime zest.
Step 5
Pour the batter into the prepared cake pan and bake for 1 hour to 1 hour and 15 minutes, or until the top and edges are shiny and golden and a wooden skewer inserted into the center comes out clean. Let the bibingka cool completely. After the cake is cool, run a butter knife around the cake to loosen it from the sides of the pan. Gently invert the cake onto a serving plate or cake stand.
Lime Glaze Prep
Meanwhile, in a small bowl, combine the powdered sugar, salt, lime zest, and lime juice. Whisk together until combined. Stream in 1 tsp of water and whisk until the glaze is slightly thin in consistency. When cake is cool, pour glaze on top and serve.
